After 6 weeks of cruising in the beautiful Bahamas aboard 11' 10"
ENIGMA,
I'm now back at home. I didn't reveal the exact details of my
proposed trip beforehand because frankly I wasn't sure if I could even
do it even though I had visited the islands seven times before with my
wife
Mindy aboard our 15' sailboat, LITTLE CRUISER. However, this time was
different and
even more challenging because I traveled alone and without the benefit
of an outboard motor. It was a voyage for the purist with
sail
and oar only- inspired by my mentors Sven Yrvind and Matt Layden.
I left my home in North Carolina way back on March 17, and I drove
directly to Key Largo. Launching little ENIGMA on her own
wheels
at the gravel ramp near the Mandalay restaurant,
I remained nearby for a few days until a favorable weather window
appeared. Then, mustering up all my courage, I left from the
Northeast
tip of Rodriguez Key in the late afternoon on March 22, making
a night crossing of the Gulf Stream amongst dozens of fast moving ships
to arrive in tropical Bimini the following
day. After clearing customs, I anchored overnight in the
noisy
harbor, and then I sailed in a moderate Southerly breeze 85 statute
miles
across the Bahama Bank to Chub Cay in the Berry Islands. However, the
trip Eastward turned out to be quite stressful because I was caught
offshore by a strong frontal passage where I experienced winds in
excess of 50 knots. Fortunately, my 20 years of experience in sailing
small boats on big waters paid off, and I managed to keep ENIGMA
upright and on course to reach a safe harbor before nightfall.
Much of the rest of the trip went the same way where there were easy
days and then those times that pushed my seamanship to it's very
limits. From the Berry Islands I sailed on to Nassau and then to the
idealic islands of the Exumas. When I finally reached Georgetown, I
turned around and headed back up to Staniel Cay, where I aimed my bow
Westward to sail 80 miles to reach the largest island in the Bahamas,
Andros. I spent many days in South Bight, exploring it's unspoiled back
waters while I fought off the constant attacks of voracious insects
like the island's infamous "doctor flies". These horse flies
earn
their name because their bite feels like painful injections. Then I
took my time sailing back up North, eventually finding my way
across the Bahama Bank and ultimatley to Miami, where I was hit
unexpectantly at anchor by a 40 foot quad rowing shell. After surviving
all the difficulties cruising the Bahamas in my tiny craft, I almost
sunk in home waters. My crippled cruiser was towed to shore,
where I was able to load it on my trailer a few days later and bring it
home for repairs.